About a ten ago , a friend of mine had a class of sorcerous drinking . He ’d been through a jolty mend , move home to Southern California , and take up residency at a local tequila legal profession . Not really much of a toper , he ’d usually just scan and people watch . A single drinking would last him the afternoon . “ hold off , so you just sipped tequila ? ” I require him . “ At first , ” he aver . “ And then I discovered mezcal . ”

It sound like more of a disclosure than a find . A few year later , I receive my first taste of mezcal , when another friend bestow back a feeding bottle from Oaxaca . I ’m not a tequila drinker , but I was quickly informed that tequila and mezcal are stuffy siblings of very , very unlike temperaments . Mezcal is not something you take a dig of but rather something you put in a sniffer . It ’s all skunk at first taste , but when it bring in , a bouquet of relish opens on your palette , and the distinctive sweetness of agave slides across your tongue . This I could sip !

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In the retiring few year , mezcal ’s become a turn of a dress shop fascination in the United States — and for good grounds . Mezcal is everything metropolis - dwelling , money - spending hippie like out of a spirit . It ’s obscure . It ’s constitutive . It ’s diminished batch . It ’s arcane ( in a good fashion ) . And most importantly , it ’s artisanal .

search into the agave and lose yourself .

All this probably sounds adequate percentage appeal and confusing , if you ’re Modern to mezcal . So let ’s back up a second . Mezcal , like tequila , is made by distilling the juice from the cores — or piñas — of the agave industrial plant . Whereas tequila must be made of the blue agave variety in Jalisco and a few other State Department in central Mexico , mezcal ordinarily herald from the far south of Mexico ( read : Oaxaca ) . The distillate process also differs because mezcaleros ridicule the piñas over flame hot rocks in earthen heap . This is where mezcal gets its undeniably gross and wonderfully smoky flavor . Once roast , the piñas are crushed beneath a prehistoric - looking stone wheel attract by a horse or domestic ass and then distilled in wooden barrels or clay pot . It ’s all very , very artisanal .

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Those are the fundamental principle . I knew as much earlier this calendar week , when I went toCasa Mezcal , a three - floor Oaxacan cultural center , restaurant , and mezcaleriain the Lower East Side . There I met Pedro , an affable and intensely knowledgable barkeeper who explain how mezcal has more in common with fine wine than with tequila — at least in term of craftsmanship . In Mexico alone , there aresome 9,000 producers of mezcal , the immense majority of whom deal locally and in small sight . There are also about 200 dissimilar coinage of agave , each of which has its own distinctive flavor .

You ca n’t get more artisanal than a horse and bicycle made out of stone .

So when select a mezcal , it ’s important to appear not only at the palenque ( distillery ) but also the species of agave used . While the emphasis put on eld is not as strong as it is in wine , you will feel a spectrum . Joven mezcal is unaged . Reposado or añejo are aged . All are delicious .

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The more questions I asked Pedro about specific varietal and palenques , the more he urged me to go to Oaxaca and see the process for myself . On the back of a receipt , he drop a line “ Los Amantes ” and the name of its owners , Guillermo Olguín and Ignacio Carballido . “ Just tell them you were here and you may see how they make mezcal , ” said Pedro , as he poured me a gustatory sensation of Los Amantes Joven . One gustatory sensation led to another and another , and the next thing I bonk I was design a slip to Mexico with a sniffer in my hand . I stopped shortly of booking a hotel , if only because I want to do more enquiry on which palenques to visit .

Mezcal is traditionally not topnotch fancy . Here it is fancy .

But you do n’t really have to go to Oaxaca to memorize about mezcal . One of the most glorious things about the philosopher’s stone of the Gods is that you may find an first-class bottle for around $ 50 jolly easy . With Pedro ’s help , I identified five of my favorites ( and one I ’m break to try ) that you could either order or bribe at a good liquor computer storage . Or you could fly to Oaxaca and discover even more .

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Los Amantes Joven

Holy shit I love this . And I ’m not the only one either . concord to one ranking , Los Amantes Jovenis the second adept mezcalin the Earth . ( Thecomparably price Don Amando , which I have n’t render , is ranked first . ) That said , it ’s easily one of the most pleasant-tasting and agreeable spirits I ’ve ever taste . This is a thoroughgoing starter bottle . [ $ 55 ]

Fidencio Tobala Joven

This is my favorite ( and Pedro ’s too ) . It ’s an expensive deary ! Yet , the elegant yet approachable smell made me palpate like I was really experiencing something special , and I ’d consider buying a bottle for a special occasion . Made from the wild Tobala agave , this mezcal is rare and luxurious . Sip it slow . [ $ 150 ]

Alipus San Andrés

After tasting several mezcales , Pedro fill my sniffer with this treat . Alipus is trade palenque — though most palenques are craftiness palenques — known for its notably complex flavor profiles , and the San Andrés release wo n’t let you down . The superimposed floral flavor is excellent for slow sipping . [ $ 48 ]

El Jolgorio Tobala Joven

speak of comparing peyote to wine , the colourful lineup of varietal wine from El Jolgorio remind me of feeding bottle you ’d find at a boutique winery . Except instead of being filled with grape juice , they ’re full of the holy nectar called mezcal . And plain , I ’m a fan of the Tobala varietal , though I ca n’t really afford to be . [ $ 115 ]

Mezcales De Leyenda Guerrero

So call up how most mezcales are from Oaxaca ? That does n’t have in mind that a scrumptious mescal from another part of Mexico ca n’t be salient as well . This peppery blend from Guerrero was one of the most interesting mezcales I ’ve try . And it ’s demonstrate organic , just for the hipsters ! [ $ 62 ]

Ilegal Mezcal

This is the Lophophora williamsii I have not tried , but I ’ve hear a passel about . Made with four generations ’ Charles Frederick Worth of expertness , Ilegal Mezcal is supposed to be both terrific and terrifically priced . flop now , they ’re offering a three pack for the Leontyne Price of two half nice bottles of Scotch malt whisky . [ $ 47 to $ 210 for three vintages ]

And to think those are onlya fistful of thousands of different mezcalesfrom Mexico alone . As the feeling ’s becoming popular worldwide — chiefly in the U.S. and Japan — palenques are opening up elsewhere . The trend is remindful ofthe banquet of individual malted milk whiskey , yet somehow more ghostlike . As the Oaxacan locution goes : “ Para todo mal , mezcal , y para todo bien también . ” In English , “ For everything bad , mezcal , and for everything upright , the same ” .

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image via Flickr /Joshua Bousel / Roger Ferrer Ibáñez

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